- Dog bowls, check; lots of dog towels, check; dog shampoo, just in case. Car loaded, chewy bones in the backseat, and somewhere in all of this our luggage made it in between the canine crate and Jameson’s travelling bag.
On a very cold day in March, Bob, Jameson and I started off for Ohio--our first stop of the “15 Inns in 15 days” tour courtesy of Select Registry. The weather forecast was dicey as snow streamers created whiteouts on the south shore of Lake Erie, but going slowly and determined to get south after a brutal winter, we made our way to Danville, Ohio.
An hour south of Erie we saw bare ground for the first time since December, and hoped there would be more places without snow at this time of year!
What was such fun about planning this “Trip of a Lifetime” was that the journey gave us the opportunity to visit places that had not been on our radar before.
As the sun set, we meandered slowly on the narrow Amish roads to The White Oak Inn-home of Ian, Yvonne and Dugald the big black Lab. Yvonne is also a member of the “Eight Broads” – Select Registry’s version of a Female Cordon Bleu brigade. She welcomed us with homemade lasagna, salad and our own BYO of Veuve Cliquot (the county is dry, so the White Oak cannot serve alcohol) to celebrate our first night on the road.
Ian joined us for a drink, and looked very perplexed at one point as we discussed the fact that 3 of 4 of us were from Toronto! When I described where we lived in the city, he raised his eyebrows and told us that he had worked at the now-defunct bakery on our street as a college student, and his grandmother had been the head cake decorator, including special orders for Queen Elizabeth when she visited Canada. This was an ultimate small-world story.
At breakfast Yvonne presented us with a plush-toy moose, promptly named “CJ”-- short for comfort and joy (and the tagline for www.theartofpudding.com) . CJ is now our travelling totem for the SR year on the road.
A short, but slippery walk took us down to the Falls themselves where it was like another world! Stratified rock deposits and a solid spring run-off made for magic in the valley. Jameson made friends, played with dogs, and returned to the car filthy but happy. The weather was nice enough for us to give him an outdoor bath, and leave him to dry on our cabin deck while we all enjoying the setting sun over the park.
At breakfast we had the pleasure of meeting proprietors, Ellen and Terry. Ellen’s enthusiasm and joie de vivre definitely adds to the spirit of the Inn. In the gorgeous wood-chinked dining facility we chatted about the area, the hikes we missed (and want to come back for) and the lack of cell service! Ellen generously gave us a baseball hat with the slogan, “Hiked it and Liked it” and I snuck some of the wonderful homemade granola into my luggage. Hugs and waves sent us out of the park in sunshine, and to points southeast.
It was hard for me to pass any antiquing opportunities while on the road. The route from southeast Ohio to Versailles, Kentucky definitely served up ample stopping locations along the way, but we had an end-game destination; Woodford Distillery on the Bourbon trail. Racing against the clock, we made the last tour of the historic spirit-maker. A great tour, a wonderful product, and the opportunity to talk to “Bourbon Bill” who quietly sat in the corner of the distillery shop, providing extra knowledge to those that probed further.
It was hard for me to pass any antiquing opportunities while on the road. The route from southeast Ohio to Versailles, Kentucky definitely served up ample stopping locations along the way, but we had an end-game destination; Woodford Distillery on the Bourbon trail. Racing against the clock, we made the last tour of the historic spirit-maker. A great tour, a wonderful product, and the opportunity to talk to “Bourbon Bill” who quietly sat in the corner of the distillery shop, providing extra knowledge to those that probed further.
With a bottle of double-oaked Reserve, we drove via the back roads through horse country to the stately Storybook Inn. Elise, the elegant and lovely proprietor showed us through the beautiful property, to our aptly named suite “Gone with the Wind”. The gorgeous room with sumptuous colours and textures, made you feel like you had stepped back in time. Elise is passionate about her property, and toured us through the Inn’s other movie-themed rooms, where no expense or detail has been spared.
Jameson was looking very comfy here, except for the uber-friendly house cat who only wanted to make friends. Unfortunately our Wheaton’s previous experience with cats had been antagonistic, and he had other ideas. Quickly whisked into the car, Jameson looked longingly at the pretty little black and white feline who happily purred around our ankles as we chatted on the porch.
Jameson was looking very comfy here, except for the uber-friendly house cat who only wanted to make friends. Unfortunately our Wheaton’s previous experience with cats had been antagonistic, and he had other ideas. Quickly whisked into the car, Jameson looked longingly at the pretty little black and white feline who happily purred around our ankles as we chatted on the porch.
After an over-the-top breakfast in the conservatory and an exploration of the manicured grounds, we set off to climb into the Great Smoky Mountains—destination, Waynesville, North Carolina.
Unfortunately the weather gods weren’t working with us on our ascent into the range, as a massive fog rolled in and traffic slowed to a crawl, with the beautiful views hidden in grey mist. We arrived later than expected, and found the charming Yellow House on Plott Road just around dinner time. Shawn the Innkeeper graciously directed us to where we may purchase a good take-out meal for a quiet night by the fire while the rain continued to drizzle. Our lovely cabin was perched on the Inn’s upper pond, overlooking the cascading lower gardens beginning to show their spring fashion show.
The rain didn’t let up to explore the beautiful grounds, but encouraged an activity documented in the Yellow House Guest Guide as “Loafing”. I had never seen an Inn spell out the art of doing nothing so well – much kudos to the sense of humour and necessity at the Yellow House!
Unfortunately the weather gods weren’t working with us on our ascent into the range, as a massive fog rolled in and traffic slowed to a crawl, with the beautiful views hidden in grey mist. We arrived later than expected, and found the charming Yellow House on Plott Road just around dinner time. Shawn the Innkeeper graciously directed us to where we may purchase a good take-out meal for a quiet night by the fire while the rain continued to drizzle. Our lovely cabin was perched on the Inn’s upper pond, overlooking the cascading lower gardens beginning to show their spring fashion show.
The rain didn’t let up to explore the beautiful grounds, but encouraged an activity documented in the Yellow House Guest Guide as “Loafing”. I had never seen an Inn spell out the art of doing nothing so well – much kudos to the sense of humour and necessity at the Yellow House!
It was a short drive down the road to Asheville, NC and the beautiful Black Walnut Bed and Breakfast. It was here that I realized Select Registry should add a preamble to their directory which says “must love dogs” (or cats, or other critters that may be resident).
A big sloppy greeting from Belle the Samoyed was my front-door welcome and she didn’t stray far from my side as I was given a quick overview of the sumptuous building. The charming cocktail hour that Innkeepers Peter and Lori hosted was a wonderful way to meet your fellow guests and exchange stories, with Belle of course, at the centre of the action. We wandered into downtown Asheville to the highly recommended Bouchee for an-all-you-could eat mussel extravaganza and some other lovely French fare.
The North Carolina food experience continued with Lori’s full-on silver service breakfast and outrageous Crème Brule French Toast. Even the squirrels on the bird feeder outside the breakfast window watched in awe!
A big sloppy greeting from Belle the Samoyed was my front-door welcome and she didn’t stray far from my side as I was given a quick overview of the sumptuous building. The charming cocktail hour that Innkeepers Peter and Lori hosted was a wonderful way to meet your fellow guests and exchange stories, with Belle of course, at the centre of the action. We wandered into downtown Asheville to the highly recommended Bouchee for an-all-you-could eat mussel extravaganza and some other lovely French fare.
The North Carolina food experience continued with Lori’s full-on silver service breakfast and outrageous Crème Brule French Toast. Even the squirrels on the bird feeder outside the breakfast window watched in awe!
Blue skies prevailed in the mountains as we wound our way from charming Asheville down to the foothills on the South Carolina/North Carolina border towards Tryon. The 1806 Pine Crest Inn’s history was very intriguing having morphed from sanatorium to luxury horse destination to its current role as retreat and small conference centre for local businesses.
Jameson had many encounters at the Pine Crest, including playing with Trixie, Linda the Innkeeper’s rescue Wheaton, and also negotiating passage with two very strong-willed black cats who assumed the role as property security. When the felines took up residence outside our door for the night, we knew exactly who was in control.
After breakfast I was telling the cat story to the Inn staff, who pointed me to a framed article from USA Today indentifying The Pine Crest Inn as one of the top 10 haunted places to stay in the U.S.! Maybe the cats’ behaviour...oh well.
Jameson had many encounters at the Pine Crest, including playing with Trixie, Linda the Innkeeper’s rescue Wheaton, and also negotiating passage with two very strong-willed black cats who assumed the role as property security. When the felines took up residence outside our door for the night, we knew exactly who was in control.
After breakfast I was telling the cat story to the Inn staff, who pointed me to a framed article from USA Today indentifying The Pine Crest Inn as one of the top 10 haunted places to stay in the U.S.! Maybe the cats’ behaviour...oh well.
A big driving day and a true climate change as we headed to the sultry town of Savannah. Finally we could break out the short sleeves, but still a little too chilly to enjoy the beautiful pool at the Azalea Inn and Gardens. After a great walk through the squares of the historic town, we were joined on our private pool patio by Joey, the cutest, toothless Yorkshire terrier who could smell cheese from 100 yards away. Theresa the owner had graciously put us in the Garden Cottage, which let the dogs get to know each other and provided an excellent location for canine hopes of cheese crumbs to hit the pool deck.
At breakfast Innkeeper Shannon told us all about the gorgeous murals that grace the dining room walls. The previous Inn owner hired students from the Savannah School of Art to paint the walls with historic themes of the area. However the students added some of their own twists to history which made for humourous discoveries in the artwork.
At breakfast Innkeeper Shannon told us all about the gorgeous murals that grace the dining room walls. The previous Inn owner hired students from the Savannah School of Art to paint the walls with historic themes of the area. However the students added some of their own twists to history which made for humourous discoveries in the artwork.
We made a quick beeline north to our next stop, the charming and historic city of Charleston, S.C. for a lunch reservation at the renowned Husk restaurant. Bob had been coveting a visit to this southern food Mecca for a long time, and it didn’t disappoint.
A quick stroll after lunch brought us to the gorgeous Governor’s House Inn where the owner Janice introduced us to the historic Kitchen House Suite. A truly unique location, the 2 rooms were former kitchens for the slaves of the property. Janice shared that during the Inn renovations, the old ovens were discovered in the brick. A beautiful glassed display is well preserved in the suite for guests’ viewing.
Charleston is such a wonderful walking city for humans and canines that we had good opportunity to explore the back alleys with Jameson leading the way. After a few hours we retreated to our porch for a glass of wine and beautiful sunset. Of course quiet didn’t last as the house cat came over to introduce himself. Even though we thought Jameson was snoozing soundly on the deck, the tabby’s arrival brought our dog quickly back to life!
One of the beautiful plusses of travelling with SR – along with the awesome breakfasts – is the history you learn. The Governor’s House was a wonderful example as the Inn is the former residence of Governor Rutledge who was the youngest signatory on the Declaration of Independence.
A quick stroll after lunch brought us to the gorgeous Governor’s House Inn where the owner Janice introduced us to the historic Kitchen House Suite. A truly unique location, the 2 rooms were former kitchens for the slaves of the property. Janice shared that during the Inn renovations, the old ovens were discovered in the brick. A beautiful glassed display is well preserved in the suite for guests’ viewing.
Charleston is such a wonderful walking city for humans and canines that we had good opportunity to explore the back alleys with Jameson leading the way. After a few hours we retreated to our porch for a glass of wine and beautiful sunset. Of course quiet didn’t last as the house cat came over to introduce himself. Even though we thought Jameson was snoozing soundly on the deck, the tabby’s arrival brought our dog quickly back to life!
One of the beautiful plusses of travelling with SR – along with the awesome breakfasts – is the history you learn. The Governor’s House was a wonderful example as the Inn is the former residence of Governor Rutledge who was the youngest signatory on the Declaration of Independence.
Heading north up the I95, and then bearing due east towards the coast we drove to Gloucester in Northern Neck Virginia and the majestic manor of The Inn at Warner Hall. Unfortunately owners Troy and Theresa were out of town, but we were put in the capable hands of Jen, Stephanie and Chef Eric. Chef treated us to a wonderful multi-course dining experience where silverware pieces were more ample than on Downton Abbey. After dinner Jameson was invited into the drawing room for a nightcap. A true “Lord Crawley/Isis” moment.
Warner Hall also provided great history lessons. George Washington really did sleep there, and Queen Elizabeth II is a direct descendant of a previous owner of the Inn. The on-property cemetery was well worth the visit to see tombstones dating back pre-1700’s to some of the oldest history in the U.S.
Warner Hall also provided great history lessons. George Washington really did sleep there, and Queen Elizabeth II is a direct descendant of a previous owner of the Inn. The on-property cemetery was well worth the visit to see tombstones dating back pre-1700’s to some of the oldest history in the U.S.
We took the opportunity to visit historic Williamsburg which is a short drive from the Inn. Theatrical and architectural history rounded out a wonderful Saturday afternoon, while Jameson got to bask in the glory of “Dog Street” the heartbeat of the town.
Back over the Rappahannock we drove onto the Northern Neck peninsula and into Irvington, VA. As we approached the quiet village, 3 deer leapt from a dozy afternoon nap in the front garden of Hope and Glory.
Unlike anywhere else we had visited, Hope and Glory was whimsical and cottage-like. The garden path provided a good giggle when I took Jameson out in the morning, with food-for-thought signage not taking itself too seriously.
One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to the Rappahannock Oyster Company’s adorable restaurant, Merroir. Playing on the word “Terroir”, Merroir represents the flavours from the sea in the river oysters. A lovely afternoon was spent talking to locals about the return to health of the Chesapeake and its commercial seafood bounty.
Back over the Rappahannock we drove onto the Northern Neck peninsula and into Irvington, VA. As we approached the quiet village, 3 deer leapt from a dozy afternoon nap in the front garden of Hope and Glory.
Unlike anywhere else we had visited, Hope and Glory was whimsical and cottage-like. The garden path provided a good giggle when I took Jameson out in the morning, with food-for-thought signage not taking itself too seriously.
One of the highlights of our trip was a visit to the Rappahannock Oyster Company’s adorable restaurant, Merroir. Playing on the word “Terroir”, Merroir represents the flavours from the sea in the river oysters. A lovely afternoon was spent talking to locals about the return to health of the Chesapeake and its commercial seafood bounty.
Heading into central Virginia, we drove southwest to Chestnut Hill Bed and Breakfast in Orange. Owners Kathleen and Troy were generous hosts providing Bob with the ultimate accommodation – his own man cave complete with 60” TV! Happiness abounded as Jameson and Bob settled in to watch the University of Virginia play in March Madness. The two of them were completely at home, falling asleep on the leather couch while watching the game.
Chestnut Hill is a gracious destination located at the top of a hill overlooking much of the property. Kathleen is effusive, a natural hostess and a great cook. She also takes special care in keeping her cat, dog and fish all well fed and happy.
Central Virginia is a historical paradise. Not far from Orange are the homesteads of former Presidents James Madison and Thomas Jefferson. There is so much to explore, it was unfortunate we weren’t able to stay longer.
Chestnut Hill is a gracious destination located at the top of a hill overlooking much of the property. Kathleen is effusive, a natural hostess and a great cook. She also takes special care in keeping her cat, dog and fish all well fed and happy.
Central Virginia is a historical paradise. Not far from Orange are the homesteads of former Presidents James Madison and Thomas Jefferson. There is so much to explore, it was unfortunate we weren’t able to stay longer.
Heading northeast, we returned back to coast towards the Eastern shore of Maryland with Chestertown on our GPS. As we crossed over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, it was like a step to another world from the hustle and bustle of the D.C. –Baltimore corridor. Pretty farmhouses and vistas over the water abounded in rural Kent County.
The Brampton Inn was set back from the road, nicely cloistered by flower beds and tree allees. Jameson was greeted by the resident cat on the porch, and expressed his usual curiosity causing the cat to seek safer space quickly! But Jameson’s interest was short-lived, as he focused his energy elsewhere while we walked the property replete with the wonderful sights and smells of resident deer and rabbits.
At breakfast we had a great chat with Danielle the owner, and another of the “Cooking Broads”. Innkeeper Rita kept the morning service moving as the 3 of us quickly lost track of time with a lively conversation. With some pointers of how to spend our day, we drove into quaint Chestertown.
The Brampton Inn was set back from the road, nicely cloistered by flower beds and tree allees. Jameson was greeted by the resident cat on the porch, and expressed his usual curiosity causing the cat to seek safer space quickly! But Jameson’s interest was short-lived, as he focused his energy elsewhere while we walked the property replete with the wonderful sights and smells of resident deer and rabbits.
At breakfast we had a great chat with Danielle the owner, and another of the “Cooking Broads”. Innkeeper Rita kept the morning service moving as the 3 of us quickly lost track of time with a lively conversation. With some pointers of how to spend our day, we drove into quaint Chestertown.
The mix of Georgian, Victorian and colonial history made for an interesting walk through the narrow streets. Cold winds picked up across the water quickly, and we retreated to the warmth of our vehicle as a winter storm approached. We were not travelling far to our next destination, Great Oak Manor on the Chesapeake, but decided to play it safe and pick up some take-out and stay in that evening.
The Great Oak’s Innkeeper, Jen, couldn’t have been more hospitable and welcoming. As the only guests at the Inn, we truly felt like we were living like the Crawleys on the wind-whipped bay. The big winner was Jameson who had the run of the house, and really got to live like Isis!
At breakfast we got a clear view of the Chesapeake and the grounds now covered in snow. The winds were too strong to explore the property, but what we saw looked absolutely gorgeous. The Great Oak was a very special place both in feel and location. After big hugs with Jen, we drove onwards to experience real Downton.
The Great Oak’s Innkeeper, Jen, couldn’t have been more hospitable and welcoming. As the only guests at the Inn, we truly felt like we were living like the Crawleys on the wind-whipped bay. The big winner was Jameson who had the run of the house, and really got to live like Isis!
At breakfast we got a clear view of the Chesapeake and the grounds now covered in snow. The winds were too strong to explore the property, but what we saw looked absolutely gorgeous. The Great Oak was a very special place both in feel and location. After big hugs with Jen, we drove onwards to experience real Downton.
Winterthur is the former summer residence of the Duponts in Delaware. Upon their death the property was completely converted to a museum and houses the finest collection of American decorative arts anywhere in the world. We were lucky enough to visit the estate while the Downton Abbey costume collection was on display. It was a lovely curated exhibit of comparative lifestyles of British aristocracy and America’s wealthiest in the early 20th C.
The museum is also very close to the Hamanassett Bed and Breakfast in Chadd’s Ford, PA. After checking in we took Jameson out for his afternoon stroll, and were quickly joined on the fence line by 2 very curious horses. They followed us closely down the hill in their pen, perhaps looking for a treat? Jameson was fascinated--he’d never been followed by anything this big!
We had the pleasure of meeting Inn owner Ashley at breakfast, whose beautiful family silver and table settings were an integral part of her exceptional meal. Wanting to continue our history tour, we set out fairly early for historic downtown Philadelphia.
Jameson enjoyed his walk through the green spaces surrounding Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell but we didn’t give Philly the time it deserved. We only had one lovely Inn left on our journey and wanted to make the best of our stay in Bucks County.
We had the pleasure of meeting Inn owner Ashley at breakfast, whose beautiful family silver and table settings were an integral part of her exceptional meal. Wanting to continue our history tour, we set out fairly early for historic downtown Philadelphia.
Jameson enjoyed his walk through the green spaces surrounding Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell but we didn’t give Philly the time it deserved. We only had one lovely Inn left on our journey and wanted to make the best of our stay in Bucks County.
The Inn at Barley Sheaf did not disappoint. A beautiful rural property with cats, miniature horses and even a goat, provided wonderful entertainment for all of us. Luckily we were travelling with carrots now, much to the delight of the animals in the pen.
We celebrated our last Inn visit with an incredible dinner prepared by Chef Josh – grilled octopus, duck breast with duck skin ‘granola’ and lemon Goat Cheese cheese cake were some of the highlights. Mark the owner stopped by and provided some more history about the property including playwright (and former owner) George Kaufman’s living history in the building.
On our last morning, we made a final visit to the mini horses to finish off our carrot supply and let Jameson say goodbye to his new friends.
It was a wonderful trip over the 15 days, including making new friends and exploring destinations not previously visited. My American history improved five-fold and my waistline expanded from the great food. As we drove north back to Canada, patches of snow appeared, bringing us all back to reality relatively quickly, but great memories of a wonderful road trip linger on.
We celebrated our last Inn visit with an incredible dinner prepared by Chef Josh – grilled octopus, duck breast with duck skin ‘granola’ and lemon Goat Cheese cheese cake were some of the highlights. Mark the owner stopped by and provided some more history about the property including playwright (and former owner) George Kaufman’s living history in the building.
On our last morning, we made a final visit to the mini horses to finish off our carrot supply and let Jameson say goodbye to his new friends.
It was a wonderful trip over the 15 days, including making new friends and exploring destinations not previously visited. My American history improved five-fold and my waistline expanded from the great food. As we drove north back to Canada, patches of snow appeared, bringing us all back to reality relatively quickly, but great memories of a wonderful road trip linger on.